How to Dutch Braid Step by Step (With Photos & Video)

Dutch vs. French Braid: The One Difference That Changes Everything

People describe the Dutch braid as the "reverse French braid" or the "inside-out braid" — both names point to the same thing. In a French braid, you cross sections over the center. In a Dutch braid, you cross sections under the center. That single change causes the center strand to sit on top of the braid rather than underneath it, creating the raised, rope-like ridge that makes Dutch braids so visually dramatic.

	French Braid	Dutch Braid
Cross direction	Sections cross over center	Sections cross under center
Visual result	Flat, woven pattern sits close to scalp	Raised 3D ridge pops off the scalp
Best for	Everyday school, elegant updos	Statement styles, sports, double braids
Difficulty	Beginner–intermediate	Same as French once you know the motion
Pancaking effect	Flattens with pancaking	Looks more dramatic and full with pancaking

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Learn the French Braid First — It Pays Off Here

If you haven't done a French braid yet, the Dutch braid will feel confusing because you're learning two things at once: the pickup motion and the under-crossing direction. Spend one session on the French braid tutorial first. Once your fingers know how to pick up new sections and maintain tension, switching to under-crossing for the Dutch braid takes about 10 minutes of adjustment. Most people can do a passable Dutch braid in a single afternoon if they came in knowing the French.

Watch: Dutch Braid Tutorial Video

Watch the complete technique walkthrough before reading the steps. Seeing the hand positions, the under-crossing motion, and the tension management on a real head of hair makes the written steps click immediately.

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What You Need Before You Start

Tail comb or fine-tooth comb: For a clean center part — a crooked part creates a crooked braid that drifts to one side
Spray bottle with water: Lightly damp hair grips itself far better than bone-dry hair; especially important for the Dutch braid because you need firm tension to keep the ridge raised
Texturizing spray or light mousse: Apply through mid-lengths before starting on fine or slippery hair — gives the under-cross something to hold
Fabric-covered elastic: One or two depending on whether you're doing a single or double Dutch braid
A second mirror or phone camera: Even experienced braiders check their work mid-braid; there's no shame in a progress check

Step-by-Step: The Dutch Braid

1

Create a clean starting part

Use a tail comb to part your hair cleanly down the center from forehead to nape. For a single Dutch braid, gather all your hair to the back. For double Dutch braids, divide into two equal sections and clip one aside. The quality of your part determines the symmetry of your finished braid — take 20 seconds to get it right.
2

Gather your starting section at the crown

Reach to the crown of your head and gather a section about the size of a golf ball. Divide into three equal strands: left, center, right. Hold left with your left hand's ring and pinky fingers, right with your right hand's ring and pinky, and grip the center with both thumbs and index fingers. This is identical to the French braid starting position.
3

Do two starter crosses — UNDER, not over

This is the Dutch braid's defining moment. Take the right section and cross it under the center strand (the right strand passes beneath and emerges on the other side). Then take the left section and cross it under the center. Do these two starter crosses without adding any new hair — just like starting a regular 3-strand braid, except every cross goes under. Do two complete crosses to set the angle and give yourself something to hold.
4

Begin picking up new hair — add before you cross under

Before crossing the right section under, use your right index finger to scoop a thin strip of new hair from the right side of your scalp and add it to the right section. Then cross the combined piece under the center. Repeat on the left: scoop a thin strip from the left scalp, combine with the left section, cross under center. The pickup motion is identical to the French braid; only the direction of the cross changes.
5

Maintain firm, consistent tension as you work down

The Dutch braid's raised ridge only appears when you maintain firm tension throughout. After each under-cross, gently pull the outer strands outward before proceeding to the next cross — this sets the ridge more prominently. Keep your sections roughly equal in thickness and consistent in how much new hair you pick up each time. Inconsistent tension is the number one reason Dutch braids look lumpy rather than clean and raised.
6

Stop adding hair when you reach the nape

Once you've incorporated all the scalp hair — typically at the nape of the neck — stop picking up new sections and continue as a regular 3-strand braid (still crossing under) down the remaining length. Secure with a fabric elastic. The transition from pickup-braid to regular-braid should be invisible in a well-executed Dutch braid.
7

Pancake for maximum impact

Once secured, gently pull each loop of the braid outward with your thumb and index finger from the top of the braid downward. This "pancaking" widens and fattens every loop, transforming a narrow Dutch braid into a full, lush plait that looks significantly more dramatic in photos. The Dutch braid responds to pancaking even better than the French braid does — it's worth the extra 45 seconds every time.

"The raised ridge is what makes the Dutch braid so photogenic — but it only appears when the tension is right. When clients tell me their Dutch braids look flat, the fix is almost always the same: pull the outer strands outward after each under-cross to set the ridge before moving on. That single adjustment transforms the result."

— RaDona Ludlow, Boys and Girls Hairstyles

Common Mistakes and Exactly How to Fix Them

Mistake	What it looks like	The fix
Crossing over instead of under	The braid looks like a French braid — flat instead of raised	Consciously say "under" out loud each time you cross until the direction is automatic
Loose tension throughout	Ridge doesn't pop; braid looks floppy	After each cross, tug outer strands gently outward before next pickup; work on slightly damp hair
Braid drifts sideways	Braid curves left or right instead of running straight down	Check alignment in a mirror every 4–5 crosses; adjust by picking up slightly more hair from the side it's drifting toward
Uneven sections	Bumpy, lumpy braid with irregular loops	Pick up equal amounts of new hair on each side; thin, consistent strips produce a uniform result
Ridge disappears mid-braid	Starts raised at crown, goes flat halfway down	Tension is loosening as you go — actively maintain the same pull through the entire braid, not just at the start
Sections slipping on fine hair	Strands fall out of grip mid-braid	Apply texturizing spray before starting; work on day-two hair rather than freshly washed hair

Dutch Braid Variations to Try Next

Once the single Dutch braid is reliable, these variations use the same under-crossing technique in different configurations. Each one takes the same amount of skill — just a different starting position or finishing choice.

1

Double Dutch Braids (Boxer Braids)

Divide hair into two equal sections down the center. Dutch braid each side separately, starting at the temple and working down to the nape. Secure both at the ends. Double Dutch braids are the most requested sports and school style in RaDona's salon — they hold for an entire athletic day, lie flat under helmets, and look spectacular when pancaked. Part cleanly and keep both braids starting at exactly the same point on each side for symmetry.

Most popularMedium–long hairSport-safe
2

Dutch Crown Braid

Start a Dutch braid at one temple, work across the top of the head, and pin or secure behind the opposite ear. The under-crossing technique makes the crown braid ridge visible and prominent — far more dramatic than a French crown braid at the same length. Perfect for weddings, graduations, and any occasion where you want your updo to look intentional from across the room.

Occasion perfectMedium–long hairElevated look
3

Dutch Braid into a Bun

Dutch braid from the crown down the back of the head, incorporating all scalp hair, then coil the remaining length into a low bun at the nape and secure. The raised Dutch braid ridge adds visible structure to the top while the bun keeps everything off the neck — the ideal combination for formal events, hot-weather days, and anyone who wants a style that photographs well from the back as well as the front.

ElegantLong hairAll-day hold
4

Side Dutch Braid

Start at one temple, angle the braid diagonally across the head picking up hair from one side only, and secure with an elastic at the opposite ear or nape. The side Dutch braid creates a sweep-to-one-side effect with the dramatic raised ridge visible across the entire top of the head. Combine with loose waves on the remaining hair for an effortless romantic look. One of the most popular prom and wedding guest styles in RaDona's salon.

RomanticMedium–long hairProm favorite

Compare: Watch Both Braid Tutorials Side by Side

Watching the French and Dutch braid tutorials back-to-back is the fastest way to lock in the under-vs-over difference that separates them. The pickup motion is identical — only the crossing direction changes.

💜 Dutch Braid — Watch First

Under-crossing technique · Raised ridge result

🎀 French Braid — Compare the Difference

Over-crossing technique · Flat woven result

Products That Make Dutch Braids Easier

Texturizing spray (pre-braid): One pass through dry or damp hair before starting gives fine, slippery hair grip and helps the under-cross hold tension without sliding out
Light-hold mousse (on damp hair): Apply before braiding for extra grip and extended hold — particularly helpful for braids worn during sports or long days
Fabric hair ties (not rubber): Secure the finished braid without damaging the ends; keep a 50-pack on hand — they're used up fast
Light-hold hairspray (after finishing): One pass over the completed and pancaked braid locks flyaways and sets the raised ridge for the full day

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Get the Right Products

RaDona's Amazon storefront has every product mentioned in this guide — organized by hair type and concern, all personally tested in her Utah salon.

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How to Make Your Dutch Braid Last All Day

1

Use day-two hair

Freshly washed hair is too slippery for sustained Dutch braid tension. Hair with one day's natural oils grips the under-cross and holds the ridge in place significantly longer.
2

Apply texturizing spray before braiding

Even one light pass through the hair before starting adds enough grip for the under-cross to hold through PE, sports, or a full workday without the ridge collapsing.
3

Pancake immediately after securing

Pancake while the braid is still tight and fresh — widening the loops while the braid is newly set creates a more durable structure than pancaking after it's been worn for hours.
4

Finish with a light-hold spray

Hold the can 12–14 inches away and sweep across the braid in two passes. This locks the pancaked loops and seals flyaways without weighing the braid down or making it look stiff.

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How to Dutch BraidStep by Step (With Photos & Video)